Editing
Warhammer Army Project/Orcs & Goblins
(section)
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
Warning:
You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you
log in
or
create an account
, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.
Anti-spam check. Do
not
fill this in!
===Special Units=== ====Orks==== *'''[[Black Orcs]]:''' (Black orc) Infantry. Got upped to two attacks base, and a higher armour save for 14pts vs 12pts in 8th edition. This unit got some love and will bring the hurt! Black orcs have better-staying power and are one of the few units in the army without Animosity and Immune to Psychology, meaning they won't panic like most other units in the army book. The only foreseeable issue with black orcs is that your opponent is sure to try and avoid them, and they cost double as much as a Big 'Uns. If used correctly, black orcs can be an excellent addition to the army; make sure you have the spare points. One catch, though. Even with heavy armor and shield, their low Initiative causes them to get brutally slaughtered in cc with tarpits of skaven, swordsmen, elves, etc. Be sure always to use shield and close combat weapons to survive the combat and thus make them worth their high cost. Additionally, this is one of the few units we can take with "can opener" abilities. Orcs and Goblins have a huge amount of str 4-5 attacks. But Black Orcs can pull out great weapons and wipe out tough, heavy armored units that would normally give them fits (Steam Tank, anyone?) *'''Orc Boar Boyz:''' (Orc) Your heavy cavalry. Though a high point cost, they have the potential to be worth it, as you are putting that fantastic cc squad into assault relatively quickly, plus with high strength attacks from the tusker charge special rule. A unit on the charge that deals 2 Strength 6 attacks each? Slap a Warboss on a boar with them so they won't run quite so easy. Boar Boyz is a good unit that suffers from the same problems that plague all cavalry units in 8+th edition Warhammer: the boars in a second rank don't get to attack, even though they do most of the unit's damage output. **''Wambo-combo:'' Orc Boar Boyz Big 'Uns with Orc Warchanter on boar, 50pt banner plus folwing spells: Fists of Gork + 'Ere We Go! + Gork'll Fix *'''Savage Orc Boar Boyz:''' (Savage Orc) Again, not much more to be said here, simply more expensive, batshit insane Boar Boyz with some special frenzy rules and they get to take two hand weapons while mounted, one of the few who can do so. They sacrifice survivability against mass arrow and hand weapon attacks for more 'ead crumpin'. It comes down to 2 S6 + 3 S4(5 if Big 'Uns). *'''Orc Boar Chariot:''' (Orc) 85pts. What's not to love? It's a heavy chariot pulled by boars. It can easily mow enemy infantry units flat. Suffers from being more expensive than the goblin chariot. Both have Str 5 impact hits, but the orks crew and Boars Strength boost on charge can justify 35 points. *'''Orc Brutes:''' (Orc) These brutish fuckers are the mix of a Savage Big 'Uns and a Black Orc. 18 ppm, 4 more pints than a Black Orc. They are Big 'Uns that grew to Black Orc size, less good gear with only medium armour and Immunity(Fear), but Their main job is hunting anything monstrous which they re-roll wound rolls against. Brutes are meant to be Slayers, not as armored or versatile as blacks, but meant to slay Minortours with Paired weapons or dragons with Greatweapons for 2 points upgrade. ====Goblins==== *'''Goblin Wolf Chariot:''' (Goblins) 50-150pts. A much faster, more fragile chariot option, better for taking on light infantry/fast cav. Unlike the Orc Chariot, you can take these things in units of three. However, it's usually better not to due to leadership checks for losing just one chariot. *'''Goblin [[Spear Chukka]]:''' (Orc/Goblins) 35pts. Spear chukkas are still the cheapest bolt throwers in-game, partly for the reason that they can misfire just like a stone thrower. Although, they still remain the same price as 8th where every other one has dropped (DE, HE, Dwarves, etc.), so they're relatively more expensive. Still benefit from the edition's wide long-range accuracy increase. May take 1-2 Spear Chukka's as a single special choice. *'''Goblin [[Rock Lobber]]:''' (Orc/Goblins) 85pts. a Stone thrower run by goblins. Can also take an Orc Bully for an extra wound. A fairly standard catapult. Great for flattening Dragons, Manticores, Hydras, Terrorgheists, Daemon Princes, Skycannons and other huge things that orcs normally have a problem dealing with. Even if these juicy targets are not present, it does relatively good against hordes of cheap models. A Rock Lobba is rarely a bad choice. *'''Goblin [[Nasty Skulker]]s:''' (Goblins) your backstabbing knife goblin. Scouts up and lets other units engage enemies head-on so they can get their ASF and AP bonuses for flank charging, then have a chance to flee unpursued at the end of combat. *'''Night Goblin Squig Hunters:''' (Night Goblins), your paying more than 5+ ppm (expensive for goblins) to place Night goblins with big weapons in front of the enemy turn one. Skirmish Scouts with Immunity (Psychology) can all have Nets, be S4 and/or Fight in Extra Ranks (1). The cheap way to run them is necked and bodyblock the enemy for a turn. The expensive way is to take all the upgrades and have 3 full ranks, then hid them behind terrain so they can draw attention or pincer attack. (Skirmisher don't let them benefit from flanks but Sneaky Stabbin' dose). *'''[[Squig Herd]]s:''' (Night Goblins) One of the more useful special units for O&G, squig herds are great for taking out large blocks of infantry. They put out a lot of attacks, so at their worst, they can at least soften up an enemy unit for your boyz to finish off later. They also EXPLODE if they break or if all herders are killed, so a loss in combat can potentially cause quite a bit of damage to the enemy. Moving the unit forward as fast as possible and counting on them to explode amidst your opponent's units is actually called a ''squig bomb'' and very effective. Good unit sizes include 9 squigs/3 herders (squig bomb or multiple small units), 18 squigs/6 herders (flanking unit) and 30 squigs/10-15 herders (horde combat block). *'''Night Goblin [[Squig Hopper]]s:''' (Night Goblins) Where herds are more about the squigs alone, Hoppers are a special cavalry unit. These are good for harassing enemy units and flank charging, as their relatively high speed and random movement can get them where they need to go better than herds. They only have 6+ armor save, so you have to be very picky with what you fight with squig hoppers. Having random movements actually gives Squig Hoppers several interesting advantages: They can pivot then move, giving them an effective 360* threat, and the opponent cannot declare a charge reaction against them, letting them ignore flee or stand-shoot reactions. Although they charge in the compulsory subphase, preventing them from disabling Stand&Shoot for your mainline troops, they can deny a sufficiently large area versus enemy light cavalry. Note that only a Night Goblin Boss riding a Giant Cave Squiqs can join Squig Hoppers, which lets you re-roll the random movement dice. However, said Boss will not benefit from Look Out Sir and will be cannon-bait. Squig Hoppers are both cavalry and skirmishers, so it is not worth it to have multiple ranks: Skirmishers can never disrupt their opponents when charging the flank or rear, and only the riders of cavalry models can make supporting attacks, not the mounts. And let's be honest, you're not fielding Squig Hoppers for the Night Goblin riders. *'''Night Goblin [[Sneaky Snuffler]]s:''' (Night Goblins) 8ppm Skirmishers Goblins with a S4 Squig. They fight on you goblin's flanks in a pinch, but their true power is sacrificing their movement for the chance for a Night Goblin unit within 6" gains Frenzy. Amps up Squigs and Squig Hunters. ====Others==== *'''Trolls:''' Big, strong, and fieldable in large groups, trolls are good for keeping between your groups of Gobbos and Boyz in case they fail their Animosity rolls. Trolls are mighty in cc and have some great staying power due to their regeneration. Trolls can forego their three regular attacks (they can still stomp!) in lieu of a single vomit attack, which automatically hits with S5 and no Armour Saves allowed. Watch a Chaos Knight die a very inglorious death, guaranteed not to win him any daemonhood soon. Trolls do suffer from Stupidity (and at Ld6, no less), so you'll have to keep a boss with them or warboss near them at all times if you want them actually to get shit done. Think Ogres, but with a few tricks and retardation issues. Remember that failing the Stupidity test also gives you Immune to Psychology, so at least they won't panic. Trolls also come in three varieties: standard, stone, and river. The cost differences here between common trolls and river/stone trolls are significant, with common ones being much cheaper with the same cc output. Common Trolls also don't come from your rare slot so that they won't take away from your important Manglers/Pumpwagons/War Machines. **'''Stone Trolls''': Same CC output as the other Trolls, but for +10pts, you're getting Natural Armour (5+) and magic resistance (2). Scaly skin is always helpful, but it's the magic resistance that is most useful since it will grant you a 5+ Ward Save against fireballs and other spells from the Lore of Fire which will usually burn your Trolls to ashes since you cannot take regeneration saves against them. **'''River Trolls''': Same CC output as the other Trolls, but for +10pts, you're getting strider (rivers and marshes), and your opponent gets a -1 to hit modifier in CC. While strider can, of course, be handy in the right situation, it's nothing to write home about. A -1 to hit modifier in CC is quite helpful, as it means that they're never hit on better than 4+ and sometimes only 5+.
Summary:
Please note that all contributions to 2d4chan may be edited, altered, or removed by other contributors. If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly, then do not submit it here.
You are also promising us that you wrote this yourself, or copied it from a public domain or similar free resource (see
2d4chan:Copyrights
for details).
Do not submit copyrighted work without permission!
Cancel
Editing help
(opens in new window)
Navigation menu
Personal tools
Not logged in
Talk
Contributions
Create account
Log in
Namespaces
Page
Discussion
English
Views
Read
Edit
View history
More
Search
Navigation
Main page
Recent changes
Random page
Help about MediaWiki
Tools
What links here
Related changes
Special pages
Page information