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===Special Units=== *'''Black Orcs:''' Infantry. Black orcs have better staying power (the only unit in this book with heavy armor!), and are one of the few units in the army that are immune to Animosity. They also have Immune to Psychology, meaning they won't panic like most of the other units in the army book. The only foreseeable issue with black orcs is that your opponent is sure to try and avoid them, they have no ranged option for when they are avoided, and they cost twice as much as a standard boy. If used correctly, black orcs can be an excellent addition to the army, just make sure you have the spare points. One catch though. Their low I cause them to get brutally slaughtered in cc with tarpits of skaven, swordsmen, elves etc. Be sure to always use shield and close combat weapons in order to survive the combat and thus making them worth their high cost. Additionally, this is one of the few units we can take that has "can opener" abilities. Orcs and Goblins have a huge amount of str 4-5 attacks. But Black Orcs can pull out great weapons and wipe out tough, heavy armored units that would normally give them fits (Steam Tank, anyone?) *'''Orc Boar Boyz:''' Your heavy cavalry. Though a high point cost (16 without upgrades, 20 with spear and shield), they have a potential to be worth it, as you are putting that awesome cc squad into assault relatively quickly, plus with high strength attacks from the tusker charge special rule. Slap a Warboss on a boar with them so they won't run quite so easy. Boar Boyz are a good unit that suffers from the same problems that plague all cavalry units in 8th edition Warhammer: the boars in a second rank don't get to attack, even though they do most of the unit's damage output (with spears and chopppas, the orcs have the same strength. Big 'Unz will have even more). *'''Savage Orc Boar Boyz:''' Again, not much more to be said here, simply more expensive, batshit insane Boar Boyz with some special frenzy rules and they get to take two hand weapons while mounted, one of the few who can do so. They sacrifice surviveability for more 'ead crumpin'. *'''Orc Boar Chariot:''' What's not to love? It's a heavy chariot pulled by boars. Can easily mow enemy infantry units flat. Give it an extra crew for additional lulz and attacks. Suffers from being more expensive (85 points for 1 chariot) than the goblin chariot. both have Str 5 impact hits, so it's hard to justify an extra 30 points for a boar chariot sometimes. *'''Goblin Wolf Chariot:''' A much faster, more fragile chariot option, better for taking on light infantry/fast cav. Unlike the Orc Chariot you can take these things in units of three (150 pts for the unit of 3). However, it's usually better not to due to leadership checks for losing just one chariot. *'''Goblin Spear Chukka:''' Handy for killing infantry and monsters at range, but perhaps not quite as versatile as a Rock Lobba. Then again, this thing is a special choice and is much cheaper than the Rock Lobba so you could potentially field both. In fact, spear chukkas are the cheapest bolt thrower in game currently, partly for the reason that they can misfire just like a stone thrower. You can put a bully in the bunch to keep em in line. Spear chukkas are also a 2 for 1 sort of choice for the special slot, so you can take double the duplicates you'd normally be able to take. The main issue is the ballistic skill of goblins. You'll usually be hitting on 5's or even 6's with the Chukkas, so you have to be judicious in where you place them so that you can get clear fields of fire (very hard to do with Orcs & Goblins). Luckily, with them only costing 35 points and able to field a ton of these, some of them should always be able to shoot. Be warned though, they misfire on a to hit roll of 1. *'''Squig Herds:''' One of the more useful special units for O&G, squig herds are great for taking out large blocks of infantry. They put out a lot of attacks, so at their worst they can at least soften up an enemy unit for your boyz to finish off later. They also EXPLODE if they break or if all herders are killed, so a loss in combat can potentially cause quite a bit of damage to the enemy. Moving the unit forward as fast as possible and counting on them to explode amidst your opponent's units is actually called a ''squig bomb'' and very effective. Good unit sizes include 9 squigs/3 herders (squig bomb or multiple small units), 18 squigs/6 herders (flanking unit) and 30 squigs/10-15 herders (horde combat block). *'''Night Goblin Squig Hoppers:''' Where herds are more about the squigs alone, Hoppers are a special cavalry unit. These are good for harassing enemy units and flank charging, as their relatively high speed and random movement can get them where they need to go better than herds. They only have 6+ armor save, so you have to be very picky with what you fight with squig hoppers. Having random movements actually gives Squig Hoppers several interesting advantages: They can pivot then move, giving them an effective 360* threat, and the opponent cannot declare a charge reaction against them, letting them ignore flee or stand-shoot reactions. Although they charge in the compulsory subphase, preventing them from disabling Stand&Shoot for your mainline troops, they can deny a sufficiently large area versus enemy light cavalry. Note that only a Night Goblin Boss riding a Giant Cave Squiqs can join Squig Hoppers, which lets you re-roll the random movement dice. However, said Boss will not benefit from Look Out Sir and will be cannon-bait. Squig Hoppers are both cavalry and skirmishers, so it is not worth it to have multiple ranks: Skirmishers can never disrupt their opponents when charging the flank or rear, and only the riders of cavalry models can make supporting attacks, not the mounts. And let's be honest, you're not fielding Squig Hoppers for the Night Goblin riders. *'''Snotlings:''' Swarms of tiny little greenskins with stats that make goblins look mighty. With 5 wounds and 5 attacks a base, and the fact that they will not run, you can plant a huge swarm of these on an objective and probably hold on to it for a looong time. They can also stand and shoot a single S2 shot that ignores armor, which is highly situational at best. Save your points in this slot for something else. The only use I've found for them has been to put them on a flank and let them run towards war machines. They at least won't panic anything when they die. *'''Trolls:''' Big, strong, and fieldable in large groups (35 points each), trolls are good for keeping between your groups of Gobbos and Boyz in case they fail their Animosity rolls. Trolls are very powerful in cc, and have some great staying power due to their regeneration. Trolls can forego their three regular attacks (they can still stomp!) in lieu of a single vomit attack, which hits automatically with S5 and no Armour Saves allowed. Watch a Chaos Knight die a very inglorious death, guaranteed not to win him any daemonhood soon. Trolls do suffer from Stupidity (and at Ld4, no less), so you'll have to keep a boss with them or warboss near them at all times if you want them to actually get shit done. Think Ogres, but with a few tricks and retardation issues. Remember that Stupidity also gives you Immune to Psychology, so at least they won't panic. Trolls also come in three varieties: standard, stone and river. The cost differences here between common trolls and river/stone trolls are significant, with common ones being much cheaper with the same cc output. Common Trolls also don't come from your rare slot, so they won't take away from your important Manglers/Pumpwagons/War Machines.
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