Editing Green Stuff (section)

==Sculpting Tips and Tricks==
The [[WIP]] general links to many useful tutorials for the would-be sculptor, but here are some basics.

* Because uncured GS is very sticky, you should usually apply the stuff you intend to sculpt to the general area of the armature you want to work from, then let it cure for 15-45 minutes before working with it. Keep your tools lubed up with water, chapstick, or vaseline. Always clean the surface of the mini with soap and water or alcohol to pull any residual grease off, or else the GS will be sticking to you instead of the model. 
* If you want to do hard, metallic parts like mecha or weapons, it's usually better to work with another putty. See below for more. You can, however,  vary the mix up to about 2:1 of yellow and blue either way, and it will still cure (albeit more slowly). More blue makes the putty harder and dryer, more yellow is softer and stickier. 
* Parchment (aka Baking) or waxed papers work well if you need to roll it out.
* For hair and other very fine lines, it's usually best to use a hobby knife and cut the lines in when it's nearly dry. 
* Always work in thin layers, rather than trying to throw down a whole arm in one go. Also try to work on one area at a time, and support the mini on a cork or other handle. There's nothing worse than exquisitely sculpting the fingernails and knuckles onto a mini, turning it over in your hand, and feeling all your work sink into your own fingerprint a second later as you adjust your grip..
* Uncured GS becomes softer and stickier when heated, but it also begins to cure much faster. Conversely, freezing or chilling it slows down the process and makes it much easier to get hard, flat surfaces - though it will have difficulty sticking to the armature or miniature being converted. On a hot day, make sure your model is supported while curing. If you don't, it could "slump", losing detail and falling to pieces. If it ''is'' properly-supported, however, you can use an incandescent light bulb to speed up the curing process and get on the next layer faster. 
* Super glue reacts very strongly with uncured GS - it will form a hard, pebbly skin almost instantaneously. Unfortunately the inside of the putty will still take just as long to cure, and bonding parts this way means they will usually wind up tearing apart later. It's better to [[Guide_to_Assembling_Models#Pinning|pin]] the model first, though you can use flash-cured GS to help fill gaps on the inside of a joint on a metal model.
* Don't use your files on it until it's ALL the way cured. Otherwise you're going to have to clean rock-hard putty out of your ruined file. There is a tool, called a "file card", that's made to clean out a bodged-up file, but it's easier not to screw them up in the first place