Editing WIP (section)

=== Assembly and gluing ===
The most straightforward part. Once [[WIP#Cleaning_Models| cleaned]] and clear of flash/mouldlines, assemble and glue the parts. Always "dry test" assembly of parts before gluing in case they don't fully align: file away uneven pieces if needed. You might read "no glue required" on boxes stated as "easy to build" (such as the Warhammer 40.000 "First Strike" starter set), but that just mean that models will stay upright and in one piece without it. Read the instructions to check pieces that need assembly **without glue**, such as rotatable turrets, mech arms or amovible parts - in other words, don't glue [[meme| all the things]]. 

Glues have a lot of names and qualities, but for most wargamers there's only two important types, '''Cyano Acetate Cement''' (CA glue) and '''Polystyrene Cement'''. (Plastic cement) 

==== Cyano Acetate ====
A cement, most people are familiar with versions of this substance as "super glue" or "c/krazy glue". Somewhere on the bottle will be the words "cyanoacrylate". It will result in glued elements that you can still split if you use a bit of violence if you need to disassemble the model in the future.

Works well on both metal and hard plastics, as well as resin, human skin and hair and...well, anything other than soft plastics. Having superglue debonder on hand is recommended as opposed to trying to tear something (like fingers) apart after a slight spill. 

* "Ultra-thin" is the general version a modeler of Warhammer or similar games is familiar with. Comes in small squeeze tubes. Dries extremely fast, within single digit seconds to minutes. Usually these fuckers will dry out, requiring you to use a sewing needle to keep the opening working which results in pressure so your first attempt to glue again will splat a large drop on your model and fingers. To avoid this, tap the bottle while pointing the top upwards to clear the glue out of the applicator, make sure the seal around where the lid goes is clear of glue, place the lid on tightly, keep them upright when not in use, and consider putting them in the fridge to prolong their lifespan and slow the drying of glue stuck in the applicator. 
* "Medium" is rarely seen, and comes similar to the Ultra-thin. This is the kind you'd get from a hardware store rather than a hobby shop. Usually comes in small metal tubes. 
* "Thick" is generally called "Gap Filler" and is used at it sounds. It comes in a variety of bottles by company. There is a short window of time between applying it and when it hardens too much to file away and make surfaces flush, so this tends to be a substance only for experienced modelers. Various Activator products are sold that will harden it faster, while Hardeners are sold to make it bond stronger.

==== Polystyrene Cement ====
Another cement. It will say "plastic solvent" or "Warning: solvent". This kind will melt plastics slightly, and is much more permanent. Should only be used for the harder plastics. 
Drying time varies by mixture. Precision is required for Polystyrene Cements since their nature to melt will result in ANY glue anywhere it shouldn't be leaving a nasty-looking mark that can be worse than any mold line. 

* "Thick Tube" versions, which as you may have guess come in a tube like toothpaste, are popular with scale modelers, and are what most people think of with Revell model kits. Thick Tube is the most powerful, and takes hours to even days to dry and can damage a model very badly if it gets anywhere but where you are applying two pieces together. 
* "Medium Viscous" come in bottles with extended applicators, and both dry faster and cause less damage if improperly handled. These are the most popular versions used today. 
* "Ultra-thin/Liquid Poly" come like paste, sitting in a wide bottle with a brush attached to the lid to use to apply with. The brushes can be cut to be thinner for more precision. Cause the least amount of melting, and dry almost instantly. The version stereotypically associated with [[Tamiya]] models.

==== Epoxy Resin ====
Also known as [[Green stuff]], marketing name is Kneadite Duro : consists of an adhesive and a hardener which are kept separate. Sometimes come in tubes, sometimes in a double syringe form. Must be mixed to be used. 
Different mixes produce different drying times, and the longer it takes to dry the stronger the bond. Note that something has to be held in place from hours to days for this to set up, meaning models should be taped or clamped depending on the size of the model. Keep your hands and sculpting tools wet with water or vaseline as it will stick to dry surfaces. Store in cold areas - Green Stuff World even recommends to keep it in your fridge.

After assembly, use it to fill in cracks and make the model look like it came in one piece. Once dry, green stuff can be filed away, primed and painted.

==== Clear/Canopy Glue ====
A weaker bond than the cements, but designed to work like them. The cements give off fumes which can <strike>[[Slaanesh|get you high]]</strike> give unwanted foggy effects to transparent glass elements like cockpit glass, so the Canopy Glues are a replacement that doesn't cause the same effect. Not very useful for anything else however. 

==== Gloss Varnish ====
Not really a glue, but it can be used as such. Used for holding softer parts to models, like small bits of cloth to Revell kits. Limited use for wargame modelers, who generally don't care if the pilot inside a cockpit looks like he's got real straps holding him into the seat. 

==== Clear Rubber/Silicone Cement ====
Domestic glues. Come in "All-purpose" and "Universal" varieties, with the former not being a solvent (read: won't melt parts of the model to make it stick). Their only real use is for softer plastics or things like cloth and rubber, meaning very little use for wargame modelers. 

When gluing metal models, use the cement glue and a small single layer of tissue paper between the two metal surfaces. This will make the glue stick.

==== White/Woodworkers Glue ====
That stuff you used to love peeling off things as a kid, that you used to make macaroni Valentines Day cards. Basically useless for modelers, although it can technically be used for scenery and basing. In particular clumping up cat litter with woodworkers' glue can make great rubble for scenery and terrain.

==== PVA Adhesive/Tacky Glue ====
Same as the White/Woodworking Glue, but a stronger bond. Basically the same thing, super watery becomes rubbery and transparent when it dries. 
A decent choice for terrain and basing effects. Pros will mix it with various substances to make their own basing paints like mud or snow effects.