Editing
WIP
(section)
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
Warning:
You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you
log in
or
create an account
, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.
Anti-spam check. Do
not
fill this in!
===Priming=== Before any paint is applied, any hobbyist using acrylics should apply a layer of primer to their model (enamel can skip this step - see [[WIP#Painting| Painting section]]). Primer gives a base color which makes further layers more visible, and helps them stick to the model. Metal models should be washed with warm water and let dry prior to this step. Some models should be partially or fully assembled prior to priming - see the [[WIP#Assembly| Assembly section]]. There are two methods to priming; spray-on, and brush-on. Neither is actually better than the other, and comes down solely to preference of the hobbyist although spray can save time on large models, and with lots of small models that can be done at the same time. The color of the primer influences the base paint that will go over it: * black primer: the colors will have a more realistic look. Helps with the recesses, since they'll be already dark. * bright primer: the colors will have a more "comicbook/cartoony", flashier look. You'll need to do shadier recesses or the rims between two zones will stand out. When the base colors are much lighter (bright yellow or white over black primer) or a different temperature (blue over blood red), using a black primer might take more layers for complete opacity. Same if you're planning to use inks or thin layers through an airbrush. If a model is predominantly a color (such as [[Ultramarines]], hence their "Ultrasmurfs" nickname), then using primer of that color can save time - see [[WIP#Spraying_the_base_color|spraying the base color]]. Some hobbyists prefer to start with dark colors first, and paint lighter in layers and do any Wash steps last, and thus prefer black primer. Some do the opposite with the Wash after the priming and base colors, and use white or a light gray. When deciding, it comes down to your plan for painting your model (you do have one, right?). Spray primer requires an area set aside for the spraying. Cardboard, not newspaper, should be placed well around the area to ensure you are not coloring the ground. Follow the directions on the can (usually to shake well, spray the cardboard until the color comes strong (this is not a waste, it is necessary), clean the nozzle, avoid open flame, not to hold the can between your legs and stab it with a knife on a drunken bet, and not to eat it. Also consider where you live - in high humidy, heat, or cold, having the paint dry before it hits the model or dry in clumps because it froze to itself in the air could cause problems. With proper precautions this can be avoided, but the added effort may not be worth it. Remember, LESS IS BEST and hold the can further rather than closer to achieve the best results. You can easily spray too much primer causing a blocky resulting look due to thick paint gluing the cracks that makes your model look horrible, requiring you to spend time soaking the model in Simple Green and scrubbing it with a toothbrush or putting the models up for sale for someone cheap to deal with. Do not touch the model to turn it over for spraying the other side(s) until it is fully dried or you may end up with a fingerprint for heraldry. Brush-on primer is much less complicated. Simply [[WIP#Painting|follow the instructions for painting]], and cover the whole model. The rule of not touching the painted portion still applies. ==== Zenithal priming ==== The zenith is the highest point of the sun in the sky, usually at noon. Hence, zenithal priming aims to reproduce a light shining above the figure and shadows under it by using a dark primer all around, then a brighter priming on the surfaces at the top. You can see some pictures to get a general idea [https://www.actionfiguretoronto.com/2017/03/11/zenithal-priming/ here]. You can use a grey primer first then use a white one, or go hardcore and do three coats of black all around / grey on top and diagonal (think of clock hands between 10 and 2) / white on top (clock hands at noon, or at zenith). In any case, remember that it's the model and not the spray can / airbrush that needs to be moved! When painting the top, do not put your tool vertically over the figure or you'll risk disturbing the paint flow. Move your figure at an angle in front of your primer.
Summary:
Please note that all contributions to 2d4chan may be edited, altered, or removed by other contributors. If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly, then do not submit it here.
You are also promising us that you wrote this yourself, or copied it from a public domain or similar free resource (see
2d4chan:Copyrights
for details).
Do not submit copyrighted work without permission!
Cancel
Editing help
(opens in new window)
Navigation menu
Personal tools
Not logged in
Talk
Contributions
Create account
Log in
Namespaces
Page
Discussion
English
Views
Read
Edit
Edit source
View history
More
Search
Navigation
Main page
Recent changes
Random page
Help about MediaWiki
Tools
What links here
Related changes
Special pages
Page information