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==Alternatives== Green Stuff is not your only option. The following is only a brief summary of some of the more-popular alternatives: * '''Tamiya Putty:''' Also known as Tamiya Putty Basic Grey Type, this liquidy grey goo comes in a tube straight from the ancient Eastern model-mongers themselves. It's mostly used by the scale model and diorama communities, since its purpose is to fill and smooth out surface gaps and trenches in areas where two parts meet. This is generally more important for multi-part model airplane or model tank kits, but it can be very useful for high-detail customs built for tabletop wargaming. ''Protip 1:'' It shrinks a bit when it dries, so use some excess and sand it flat later. ''Protip 2:'' Mix this with plastic glue to make realistic weld seams and energy weapon impact craters on your tanks. * '''Air-drying clays''' and '''cellulose clays:''' Don't. Just no. They're trash for working on minis (though cellulose clays can be useful for terrain). * '''Sculpey''' and '''other polymer clays:''' These will not dry out until baked, and are either waterproof or water-resistant. While they don't hold fine detail very well, they make a very convincing concrete texture and are much cheaper than epoxies. Many sculptors use polymer clay to "bulk out" a mini, making the general shape out of a cheaper clay and only using the putties on the top surface. * '''"Brown Stuff":''' A variant on Kneadatite made with aluminum powder and a slight formula tweak. Brown stuff is stiffer and less-sticky than green stuff, and it files down to a smoother surface. * '''Apoxie Sculpt:''' Another two-parter, softer and less-sticky. White, holds a little less detail but extremely easy to smooth. Sands well. Very cheap in bulk, and often used in terrain projects as a result. * '''Milliput:''' Yet another 2-part epoxy, usually yellow or terra-cotta. Cheap, somewhat fragile, and grainy. It cures very quickly and can be smoothed out to a near-mirror finish with water or isopropyl alcohol. Very popular for [[Blue Stuff]] [[casting]], bulking out armatures, and bases. There's a "fine" white version, but it's not noticeably better than the others and costs half again as much. You can mix Milliput and GS for various interesting effects, and the GS will strengthen the otherwise crumbly Milliput. * '''Beesputty:''' A hybrid epoxy clay. It has a surface finish more like Green or Brown Stuff. Handles almost like a wax under tools, which means it can hold extremely fine incised details. You can manipulate surface effects with alcohol or water. Like polymer clays, needs to be baked to cure. * '''JB Weld:''' Plumbing epoxy that comes in several varieties. It's cheap-ish and cures quickly. It's also toxic, smells ''awful'', and does nothing that the other epoxies don't. On the plus side, you can use it to make sure that your metal models will never ever come apart again (EVER!). * '''Plaster:''' An ancient material used by the greybeards of the model train sets community. It's not very good for fine details, but it can be bought in bulk and made into all kinds of scenery. It can also be used as a cheap cavity-filler or counterweight in large custom models.
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