Editing WIP (section)

====Painting Tools====
Important thing to remember, is the tools you use to paint, we don't finger-paint like the cavemen of yore, but with sophisticated sticks with hair glued to the end. More expensive tools are generally better, even in GW's case.

* Brushes: There are lots of different brush types, and are made of a multitude of materials. The cheapest and most common brushes are synthetic brushes, as in the hair isn't made of the fur of some animal, most of them are crap, but more than enough for basing, shading, and layering, they won't last long, but they're really easy to replace. The classical standard brushes are sable brushes, made of a variety of animal furs, like horse or ferret, which differ in stiffness and durability. The brushes are covered in a bit of oil which helps them keep their point. The most expensive sable is the Kolinsky Sable, coming from a species of weasel found in Siberia and Northern China, they're more durable and keep their point longer, and are usually carefully hand-made. There are some expensive synthetics that emulate expensive sables, but those are really for those who believe that the use of kolinsky sable is unethical. Most brushes are round and long that ends to a point, they're versatile and are the best for detail work. There are also flat-head brushes (like GW's base brushes), that are good for painting large basecoats and stuff, and dry/makeup brushes, that are made for... drybrushing and generally are shorter and wider. Some stand out brands are: 
** Winsor-Newton, Da Vinci, and Raphael: these companies make expensive Kolinsky brushes, usually with long bristles, which allows for a larger paint capacity, seriously, if you paint a lot of display standard minis, consider getting one. Don't really bother getting their synthetic ones, because they have worse value than even GW.
** Artis-Opus: Makes some really great soft drybrushes, though consider getting a makeup brush if on a budget, because that's kinda what the Artis Opus drybrushes are. Has good normal brushes too.
** Citadel, Army Painter, Vallejo: The standard "miniature" brushes, Citadels are decent but overpriced, Army Painter and Vallejo, they're fine. They all make similar brushes, mainly differing in the handle they use. Get some of these to start with, but it may be better value to get those packs of 20 crappy synthetic brushes for $10 you find in art stores or on Amazon.
*** No matter what you buy take care of your brushes with a good brush cleaner/conditioner to make them last years (especially Kolinsky and other natural brushes). Cleaner/conditioner is up to taste, but Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver is simple to use and good with all paints (not just acrylic).

* Painting Handles: You can hold your mini by the base like a barbarian, but any sophisticate knows it's far better to put it on a handle, its more comfortable for youor hand and keeps your dirty body oils off the mini. You can buy ready made types from GW and other companies, but its pretty easy to just take a wine cork and stick some blue tack or a paper clip on it. Great for sub-assemblies too.
** Buy some throw-away plastic shot-glass cups from the dollar store and poster tac from anywhere and stick your mini on top of the base, bada bing bada boom you can now spray primer and hand paint easily.
* Wet Palette: Have you ever made the mistake of buying one of GW's painting palettes? have you noticed that the paint you use dries out in less than a minute and you need to waste more paint on the palette? Well, then you should get yourself a wet palette, they are basically a box with a sponge that absorbs water you pour, and with some parchment paper on top to put paint on. The paint lasts far longer, and can even be usable for weeks. It can save you a lot of money over time. Many companies make their own wet palettes, but you can make your own with a Tupperware container and some paper towel for no money at all, there's dozens of tutorial on Youtube on making your own wet palette.