WIP - Revision history

Pachinko Man: /* Prince August and Italeri */

2025-08-25T03:19:56Z

Prince August and Italeri

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:19, 25 August 2025
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	====Army Painter====		====Army Painter====

	Cheap paints, really. Basically a cheaper, more diluted version of Citadel and Vallejo paint dropper bottle format. Their Tone washes are great, pretty much the same as the Citadel Shades, but cheaper with less variety. They also make these Quickshade dip cans, where you dip a basecoated miniature in there, then take it out and shake off the excess where it will be all shaded and stuff; quite messy, but good for speed painting. Their metallics are really weak and their primers vary in quality and consistency. Basically: buy if you're on a budget, otherwise, look at Vallejo or Reaper.		Cheap paints, really. Basically a cheaper, more diluted version of Citadel and Vallejo paint dropper bottle format. Their Tone washes are great, pretty much the same as the Citadel Shades, but cheaper with less variety. They also make these Quickshade dip cans, where you dip a basecoated miniature in there, then take it out and shake off the excess where it will be all shaded and stuff; quite messy, but good for speed painting. Their metallics are really weak and their primers vary in quality and consistency. Basically: buy if you're on a budget, otherwise, look at Vallejo or Reaper. Recently switched to a gel medium that makes mixing and thinning a bitch.

	[[The_Army_Painter\| Check the article for more information]].		[[The_Army_Painter\| Check the article for more information]].
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	Supposedly the same paints, as MiG was founded by a former AK Interactive employee. They're mostly famous in the scale modelling world, but their colours work fine, and they have a good naming scheme - ie: Dark Rust, Shadow Rust, Medium Rust, etc. Both have a lot of different ranges, like Ammo by MiG, and Meng Color by AK. Standout is AK Interactive's newer "3rd gen" range, which have "new" formulas and are really good, worth trying out. They both make Enamel paints, mostly used for either technical effects like chipping, or for recess shading, which enamel paints are great at. They're about the same price as Vallejo.		Supposedly the same paints, as MiG was founded by a former AK Interactive employee. They're mostly famous in the scale modelling world, but their colours work fine, and they have a good naming scheme - ie: Dark Rust, Shadow Rust, Medium Rust, etc. Both have a lot of different ranges, like Ammo by MiG, and Meng Color by AK. Standout is AK Interactive's newer "3rd gen" range, which have "new" formulas and are really good, worth trying out. They both make Enamel paints, mostly used for either technical effects like chipping, or for recess shading, which enamel paints are great at. They're about the same price as Vallejo.

			==== Turbo Dork ====
			Specializes in metallics and color-shifting paints, with lots of out-there neon colors. Their Turboshift line is a standard-ish dichroic paint like Vallejo Shifters, but their Zenishift changes color significantly based on whether it's layered on a black or a white basecoat, making it perfect for special effects if you're already doing zenithal priming. Also sells unusual goodies like silicone palettes (just buy an ice cube tray from the dollar store) and mixing sticks .

	====Daler-Rowney and Liquitex====		====Daler-Rowney and Liquitex====

Pachinko Man: /* Reaper */

2025-08-25T03:10:54Z

Reaper

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:10, 25 August 2025
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	====Reaper====		====Reaper====

	Eh, pretty much like Vallejo and Citadel. Has a large range, good cost, and some rather interesting colours.		Eh, pretty much like Vallejo and Citadel. Has a large range, good cost, and some rather interesting colours. Might be easier to find than Vallejo if you live in the US.

	====Army Painter====		====Army Painter====

Pachinko Man: /* PVA Adhesive/Tacky Glue */

2025-08-25T03:08:47Z

PVA Adhesive/Tacky Glue

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	==== PVA Adhesive/Tacky Glue ====		==== PVA Adhesive/Tacky Glue ====
	Same as the White/Woodworking Glue, but a stronger bond. Basically the same thing, super watery becomes rubbery and transparent when it dries.		Same as the White/Woodworking Glue, but a stronger bond. Basically the same thing, super watery becomes rubbery and transparent when it dries.
	A decent choice for terrain and basing effects. Pros will mix it with various substances to make their own basing paints like mud or snow effects.		A decent choice for terrain and basing effects. Pros will mix it with various substances to make their own basing paints like mud or snow effects. GW used to recommend this for those green tubes that came with [[Necron]] kits since CA glue will cloud them and looking for canopy glue might send you to a not-GW hobby store, and we can't have that.

	===Priming===		===Priming===

imported>Administrator: 124 revisions imported

2023-06-23T16:10:40Z

124 revisions imported

← Older revision	Revision as of 16:10, 23 June 2023
(No difference)

imported>Administrator: 1 revision imported

2023-06-19T14:44:04Z

1 revision imported

← Older revision	Revision as of 14:44, 19 June 2023
(No difference)

2A01:E34:EC96:6320:D55C:BB42:96AC:9A46 at 10:33, 17 January 2023

2023-01-17T10:33:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:33, 17 January 2023
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	WIP is an acronym for the term "Work In Progress" and is used on [[/tg/]] to refer to a thread General where posters are encouraged to share info on their current projects, or ask questions in hopes of getting advice. Said projects are often, but not always, related to [[Warhammer 40,000]] and [[Warhammer Fantasy]] by virtue of popularity.		WIP is an acronym for the term "Work In Progress" and is used on [[/tg/]] to refer to a thread General where posters are encouraged to share info on their current projects, or ask questions in hopes of getting advice. Said projects are often, but not always, related to [[Warhammer 40,000]] and [[Warhammer Fantasy]] by virtue of popularity.

	You can check the current WIP on /tg/ by typing "wip" in the search, or through [https://boards.4channel.org/tg/catalog#s=wip\| this link].		You can check the current WIP on /tg/ by typing "wip" in the search, or through [https://boards.4channel.org/tg/catalog#s=wip this link].

	==Before you begin==		==Before you begin==

1d4chan>Raton-Laveur: /* Painting Tools */

2022-09-23T15:59:56Z

Painting Tools

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:59, 23 September 2022
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	Important thing to remember, is the tools you use to paint, we don't finger-paint like the cavemen of yore, but with sophisticated sticks with hair glued to the end. More expensive tools are generally better, even in GW's case.		Important thing to remember, is the tools you use to paint, we don't finger-paint like the cavemen of yore, but with sophisticated sticks with hair glued to the end. More expensive tools are generally better, even in GW's case.

	* Brushes: There are lots of different brush types, and are made of a multitude of materials. The cheapest and most common brushes are synthetic brushes, as in the hair isn't made of the fur of some animal, most of them are crap, but more than enough for basing, shading, and layering, they won't last long, but they're really easy to replace. The classical standard brushes are sable brushes, made of a variety of animal furs, like horse or ferret, which differ in stiffness and durability. The brushes are covered in a bit of oil which helps them keep their point. The most expensive sable is the Kolinsky Sable, coming from a species of weasel found in Siberia and Northern China, they're more durable and keep their point longer, and are usually carefully hand-made. There are some expensive synthetics that emulate expensive sables, but those are really for those who believe that the use of kolinsky sable is unethical. Most brushes are round and long that ends to a point, they're versatile and are the best for detail work. There are also flat-head brushes (like GW's base brushes), that are good for painting large basecoats and stuff, and dry/makeup brushes, that are made for... drybrushing and generally are shorter and wider.		* Brushes: There are lots of different brush types, and are made of a multitude of materials. The cheapest and most common brushes are synthetic brushes, as in the hair isn't made of the fur of some animal, most of them are crap, but more than enough for basing, shading, and layering, they won't last long, but they're really easy to replace. The classical standard brushes are sable brushes, made of a variety of animal furs, like horse or ferret, which differ in stiffness and durability. The brushes are covered in a bit of oil which helps them keep their point. The most expensive sable is the Kolinsky Sable, coming from a species of weasel found in Siberia and Northern China, they're more durable and keep their point longer, and are usually carefully hand-made. There are some expensive synthetics that emulate expensive sables, but those are really for those who believe that the use of kolinsky sable is unethical. Most brushes are round and long that ends to a point, they're versatile and are the best for detail work. There are also flat-head brushes (like GW's base brushes), that are good for painting large basecoats and stuff, and dry/makeup brushes, that are made for... drybrushing and generally are shorter and wider. Some stand out brands are:
	Some stand out brands are:
	** Winsor-Newton, Da Vinci, and Raphael: these companies make expensive Kolinsky brushes, usually with long bristles, which allows for a larger paint capacity, seriously, if you paint a lot of display standard minis, consider getting one. Don't really bother getting their synthetic ones, because they have worse value than even GW.		** Winsor-Newton, Da Vinci, and Raphael: these companies make expensive Kolinsky brushes, usually with long bristles, which allows for a larger paint capacity, seriously, if you paint a lot of display standard minis, consider getting one. Don't really bother getting their synthetic ones, because they have worse value than even GW.
	** Artis-Opus: Makes some really great soft drybrushes, though consider getting a makeup brush if on a budget, because that's kinda what the Artis Opus drybrushes are. Has good normal brushes too.		** Artis-Opus: Makes some really great soft drybrushes, though consider getting a makeup brush if on a budget, because that's kinda what the Artis Opus drybrushes are. Has good normal brushes too.

1d4chan>Raton-Laveur: /* Links */

2022-09-23T15:57:10Z

Links

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:57, 23 September 2022
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	== Links ==		== Links ==
	* [https://boards.4channel.org/tg/catalog#s=wip\| Current "Work In Progress" thread on /tg/]		* [https://boards.4channel.org/tg/catalog#s=wip Current "Work In Progress" thread on /tg/]

	{{Model-Making}}		{{Model-Making}}
	[[Category:Tabletop_Game_Paint_Manufacturers]]		[[Category:Tabletop_Game_Paint_Manufacturers]]
	[[Category:Miniatures]]		[[Category:Miniatures]]

1d4chan>Raton-Laveur at 08:51, 24 April 2022

2022-04-24T08:51:57Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:51, 24 April 2022
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	{{Model-Making}}		{{Model-Making}}
	[[Category:Tabletop_Game_Paint_Manufacturers]]		[[Category:Tabletop_Game_Paint_Manufacturers]]
			[[Category:Miniatures]]

1d4chan>Raton-Laveur: /* Basing */

2022-04-24T08:39:06Z

Basing

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:39, 24 April 2022
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	===Basing===		===Basing===
	The final step that is skipped by far too many people. Basing a miniature is visually putting them into their world, rather than as a piece on a game board.		The final step that is skipped by far too many people : taking care of the base, as in painting or decorating the token itself on where the figure is put on. Basing a miniature is visually putting them into their world, rather than as a piece on a game board.

	The classic basing method is to throw down some PVA glue and top it with soil, sand, flock, or static grass. This is a good way to produce a very convincing effect for a wide variety of environments. These days, with GW's texture paints, the use of basing paste spread all over the base with some rocks and grass tufts thrown on is becoming more common, it's quick and simple, but has a longer drying time.		The classic basing method is to throw down some PVA glue and top it with soil, sand, flock, or static grass. This is a good way to produce a very convincing effect for a wide variety of environments. These days, with GW's texture paints, the use of basing paste spread all over the base with some rocks and grass tufts thrown on is becoming more common, it's quick and simple, but has a longer drying time.